Textile Testing Panorama Map Guide

What is textile testing?

Textile testing, according to the relevant standards, using physical or chemical methods, testing the quality and performance of textiles for qualitative or quantitative, and making a test report. Textile testing serves the textile quality management system by analyzing and studying the composition, structure, and properties of textiles and their impact on quality from the point of view of their use and conditions of use, so as to determine whether the textile products meet the requirements of the specified standards and to determine the value of use.

Textile Testing Panorama Map Guide

★Technical guidelines

1 Testing personnel requirements

Personnel engaged in testing work need to be trained and assessed before starting work to obtain qualifications. Assessment evaluation should include theoretical knowledge and field operations. Staff engaged in the detection of large or complex instruments need the instrument operation assessment before starting work, and only after passing the assessment can independently engage in testing activities. For example, the length of cotton hand pulling, chemical fiber linear density determination, chemical fiber length assessment, and other testing work, testing personnel need to have a certain amount of time of practical experience before they can independently carry out testing work.

The laboratory should regularly evaluate the continued competence of the testing personnel and maintain files on the qualifications, training, skills, and experience of the testing personnel. The laboratory’s training program should include the relevant technical requirements for training, the equipment used, and training objectives, as well as the special requirements of each test.

2 Textile testing standards / applicable areas

Standards	Corresponding Standards Organizations	Countries of Recognition
AATCC	American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists	American Countries
ASTM	American Society for Testing and Materials	American Countries
FTMS	The United States Government	US
AS	Standard Australia	Australia & New Zealand
US CPSC	The US Consumer Product Safety	US
EN	European Committee for Standardization	European Countries
BS	British Standards Institution	UK
DIN	Deutsches Institut Für Normung	Germany
NF	Association Francaise de Nprmalisation	France
CAN/CGSB	Canadian General Standards Board	Canada
JIS	Japanese Standards Association	Japan
ISO	International Organization for Standardization	European Countries
IDFB	International Down and Feather Bureau	Most countries in the world
IWS	International Wool Secretariat	Most countries in the world
GB	Standardization Administration of China	China
FZ	China National Textile Industry Council	China

3 textiles main testing items / common standards

3.1 Fiber Composition analysis/standards

fiber qualitative analysis, Identify the types of commonly used fibers	AATCC 20, ASTM D 276
fiber quantitative analysis, Test the composition content of various types of textiles and to determine the type of fiber contained in the fabric.	AATCC 20A, ASTM D 269, ISO 1833, ISO 5088, BS 4407, TM 155, JIS L 1030, GB/T 2910, GB/T 2911, FZ/T 01095, FZ/T 01048, Microscopic method: GB/T 16988, FZ/T 01048
rate of moisture regain / moisture content	(fiber wet weight－fiber dry weight) / fiber dry weight

3.2 Fiber & Yarn Testing / standards

fiber length
fiber fineness	diameter / cross-section area
Linear density / yarn counts	ASTM D1059, ISO 7211/5, BS 2865, JIS L-1096, FZ/T 01093
Yarn strength	ASTM D2256, ISO 2062, GB/T 14344, GB/T 3916
twist per unit length	ISO 2061, ASTM D1422/1423, BS 2085

3.3 Fabric tissue analysis / standards

threads per unit length	ASTM D3775, ASTM D3887, DIN/BS EN 1049.2, ISO 7211/2, JIS L-1096, GB/T 4668
fabric width	ASTM D3774, ISO 3932, JIS L-1096, GB/T 4667
fabric grams	ASTM D3776, ISO 3801, DIN/BS EN 12127, GB/T 4669
fabric thickness	ASTM D1777, ISO 5084, DIN/BS EN ISO 5084, GB/T 3820
fabric length	ASTM D3773, ISO 3933, JIS L 1096, GB/T 4666

3.4 Color Fastness Testing / standards

Color fastness to washing / soaping, Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering	AATCC 61, ISO 105 C01～C06, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 C01～C06, JIS L 0844, GB/T 3921.1~3921.5, GB/T 12490
Color fastness to crocking / rubbing, Dry / wet test the colourfastness of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials	AATCC 8, ISO 105-X12, DIN/BS EN ISO 105-X12, JIS L-0849 TYPE 1 TEST, AATCC 116, GB/T 3920
Color fastness to perspiration	AATCC 15, ISO 105 E04, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 E04, JIS L 0848, GB/T 3922
Color fastness to dry cleaning	AATCC 132, ISO 105 D01, DIN/BS EN ISO 105 D01, JIS L 0860, GB/T 5711
Color fastness to sunlight	AATCC 16, ISO 105 B02, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 B02, JIS L 0843, GB/T 8427
Water fastness	AATCC 107, ISO 105 E01, DIN/BS EN ISO 105 E01, JIS L 0846, GB/T 5713
Color fastness to seawater	AATCC 106, ISO 105 E02, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 E02, JIS L 0847, GB/T 5714
Color fastness to hot pressing, Tests are given for hot pressing when the textile is dry, when it is wet, and when it is damp. The end-use of the textile usually determines which test should be made.	AATCC 133, ISO 105 X11, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 X11, JIS L 0850, GB/T 6152
Color fastness to dry heat	AATCC 117, ISO 105 P01, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 P01, JIS L 0879, GB/T 5718
Color fastness to acid spotting	ISO 105 E05, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 E05, JIS L 0851, GB/T 5715
Color fastness to alkaline spotting	ISO 105 E06, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 E06, JIS L 0852, GB/T 5716
Color fastness to water spotting	AATCC 104, ISO 105 E07, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 E07, JIS L 0853, GB/T 5717
Color fastness to chlorine bleaching	AATCC 188
Color fastness to organic solvents	ISO 105 X05, BS/DIN EN ISO 105 X05, GB/T 7074
Saliva fastness	DIN 53160, GB/T 18886
Color fastness to chlorinated water	AATCC 162, ISO 105 E03, DIN/BS EN ISO 105 E03, GB/T 8433

3.5 Dimensional stability (Shrinkage) testing

dimensional stability of washing	AATCC 135, AATCC 150, ISO 6330, BS/DIN EN 6330, GB/T 8630
dimensional stability of dry cleaning	Commercial Dry cleaning After 1Cycle
appearance after laundering	AATCC 124, AATCC 143, AATCC 88B, AATCC 88C, ISO 7768, ISO 7769, ISO 7770, GB/T 13769, GB/T 13770, GB/T 13771

3.6 Strength Testing

tensile strength	ASTM D5034, ASTM D5035, ISO 13934-1, BS/DIN EN ISO 13934-1, ISO 13934.2, BS/DIN ISO 13934.2, JIS L 1096, GB/T 3923.1, GB/T 3923.2
bursting strength	ASTM D3786, ISO 13938-1, JIS L 1096, DIN/BS EN ISO 13938-1, GB/T 7742
tearing strength	Elemendorf method ASTM D1424, ISO 13937.1, ISO 9290, JIS L 1096, BS/DIN EN ISO 13937.1, GB/T 3917.1, tongue tear method Single-rip: ASTM D2261, ISO 13937-2, BS/DIN EN ISO 13937-2, JIS L 1096, GB/T 3917.2 Double tear: ISO 13937-4, BS/DIN EN ISO 13937-4, JIS L 1096, GB/T 3917.2 trapezoid method ASTM D5587, ISO 9037.4, ISO 13937.3, BS/DIN EN ISO 9037.4, GB/T 3917.3
seam slippage	ASTM D434, ISO 13936.1&2, JIS L 1096, BS/DIN ISO 13936.1&2, GB/T 13772.1
seam strength	ASTM D1683, JIS L 1096, ISO 10935-1&2, BS/DIN EN ISO 10935-1&2, GB/T 13773, FZ/T 70007

3.7 Performance Testing

abrasion resistance	ASTM D4966, JIS L 1096, GB/T 13775, BS/DIN EN ISO 12947.2~12947.4
pilling resistance	Pilling box method ISO 12945-1, BS 5811, DIN EN ISO 12945.1, JIS L 1076, GB/T 4802.3 Random tumbler method ASTM D3512 Martindale method ASTM D 4970, ISO 12495.2, BS/DIN EN ISO 12495.2, GB/T 4802.2 Circular locus GB/T 4802.1
waterproof	spray test AATCC 22, DIN/BS EN 24920, ISO 4920, BS 3702, GB/T 4745 hydrostatic head method AATCC 127, ISO 811, DIN/BS EN 20811, GB/T 4744
air permeability	ASTM D737, ISO 9237, BS/DIN EN ISO 9237, GB/T 11048
Water management	AATCC 195
stretch and recovery	ASTM D2594 (knitted fabric) ASTM D3107 (woven fabric) BS 4952 (elastic fabric) JIS L 1096 (woven fabric) FZ/T 01034

3.8 Flammability Testing

Textiles & clothing Flammability	ASTM D1230, US CPSC CFR 16 Part 1610
surface flammability of carpets and rugs	US CPSC CFR 16 Part 1630 US CPSC CFR 16 Part 1631
burning behavior of bedding items	ISO 12952.1~12952.3, US CPSC CFR 16 Part 1632
fire test for flame resistance textiles (small scake)	GB 8965
children’s sleepwear	DOC FF3 US CPSC CFR 16 Part 1615, DOC FF5 US CPSC CFR 16 Part 1616
Burning behaviour – Vertical method	GB/T 5455, GB/T 5456

3.9 Garment accessories testing (zippers, buttons, Velcro, etc.)

zipper strength	ASTM D2061, BS 3084
unsnapping of snap fastness	16 CFR 1500.51-53, ASTM PS79-96, EN 71-1
shear strength of Velcro tape	BS 7271
the peel strength of Velcro tape	BS 7271

3.10 other test

UPF ( ultraviolet protection factor )	penetration P of solar UVR
care label recommendation	garment size measurement
color difference assessment	whiteness, AATCC 110
Environmental textile testing, PH value, azo dyes, formaldehyde content, heavy metal content…	Appearance quality assessment

4 Testing environment: how the laboratory meets the requirements of the Code

Safety Design	The laboratory should establish and implement procedures regarding laboratory safety and personnel health protection with safety and protective equipment and facilities, including but not limited to personal protective equipment, smoke alarms, emergency sprinklers, and eyewash devices, fire extinguishers, first aid kits, ventilation facilities, etc.
Test instrument requirements	Select testing instruments that meet testing standards and are certified by quality systems (such as ISO 9001)，which are in terms of accuracy, range, and stability, such as TESTEX textile testing instruments.
Specific Environmental Requirements	The standard stipulates that the test items with environmental requirements must meet the relevant requirements of temperature and humidity, standard illumination, odor assessment of environmental conditions.  Cotton color grade inspection, color fastness rating, pilling rating, appearance rating inspection, yarn blackboard strip rating test environment must use a dedicated space to ensure that the rating results are not affected by other light sources in the adjacent area, the test environment to meet the standard illumination, the relevant requirements of the test room wall color.
Environmental requirements	Environmental protection laboratory has been the goal of international professional laboratory construction, laboratory wastewater, the waste gas composition is complex, containing acidic, alkaline, organic class, inorganic class, biological class, and other components, the random discharge of these wastes, the corresponding processing media put forward high requirements.
Management System	Laboratory management needs to realize the monitoring of the operation status of experimental instruments, room temperature, humidity, pressure, cleanliness, air disturbance, vibration disturbance, and other monitoring, as well as gas leakage, low pressure monitoring, and linked fire, security monitoring, etc. Laboratory operation involves many aspects such as reagents, consumables, documents, samples, data, instruments, personnel, etc. For laboratories with large experimental tasks or requiring fine management, how to achieve efficient, economical, and orderly experimental work needs to be studied in depth.

★Systematic guidelines

Quality management is a system, to ensure the quality of textile products, only testing is not enough, the relevant personnel, processes, etc. must also meet the relevant processes of Conformity Assessment: testing, inspection, certification, accreditation. In the following, I will analyze the four aspects, specifically the system related to the conformity assessment of textiles.

1 Conformity Assessment: testing, inspection, certification, accreditation.

According to ISO/IEC 17000, conformity assessment refers to the confirmation that the requirements related to products (including services), processes, systems, people, or institutions are met. It includes four parts: testing, inspection, certification, and accreditation.

Testing	According to technical standards, use the instruments and equipment to test a given object and provide test data. Testing work is an independent technical activity that can provide services for inspection and certification but is not equivalent to inspection.
Inspection	Relying on experience and knowledge, based on test data and other information, who review the conformity of product design, product quality, production processes, etc., to see if they comply with the relevant regulations.
Certification	By having a third-party nature of the body to prove that the product, service, process, or personnel in line with the relevant standards and norms assessment behavior, including product certification and system certification, etc.
Accreditation	Accreditation bodies to the technical competence of the certification bodies, inspection bodies, laboratory to give proof of conformity assessment activities.

According to the nature of the activities of conformity assessment, it can be divided into three categories: first-party, second-party and third-party.

First-party	It refers to the assessment implemented by manufacturers, service providers and other suppliers, such as self-inspection and internal audit carried out by manufacturers to meet their own R&D, design and production needs.
Second-party	It refers to the assessment carried out by the demand side such as users, consumers or buyers, such as the inspection of goods by buyers and factory inspection before signing contracts.
Third-party	It refers to the assessment implemented by third-party organizations independent of both supply and demand, such as product certification, management system certification, various types of accreditation activities. Certification, accreditation and inspection and testing activities issued to the community with the role of proof are third-party conformity assessment.

Compared with the first-party and second-party conformity assessment, the third-party conformity assessment is carried out by institutions with independent status and professional competence strictly in accordance with national or international standards and technical specifications, which has higher authority and credibility, and thus is generally recognized by all parties in the market, which can not only effectively ensure quality and protect the interests of all parties, but also enhance market trust and promote trade facilitation.

2 Common inspection and certification institutions

There are many international textile inspection and certification bodies, responsible for the inspection and certification of international trade goods, the common well-known institutions are listed below.

SGS	SOCIETE GENERALE DESURVEILLANCE S.A. is currently the world’s largest group of companies specializing in international commodity inspection, testing and certification, and is a comprehensive inspection and certification body.
ITS	ITS is an international commodity inspection organization that buys powerful inspection agencies in the world to form its own inspection group. the ITS group includes the Carpenter Group, Intertek International, Anna Laboratories, Ingenious Lloyd’s Agency, Intertec Services, etc.
UL	UNDERWRITERS LABORATORIES INC. is the most authoritative in the United States, but also the largest inspection body in the world, which testing and identification of private inspection agencies. The laws of many U.S. states explicitly provide that home appliances without the UL mark are not allowed to be sold in the market.
BSI	The British Standards Institute, a provider of international standards services that integrates five complementary businesses: standards research and development, standards technical information provision, product testing, system certification and commercial inspection services, provides services worldwide.
TUV	Rheinland, Germany
STR	Specialized Technology Resources, France
CQC	China Quality Certification Center

The results of the conformity assessment are usually publicized to the society in written form such as certificates, reports and logos. Through this public proof, the problem of information asymmetry is solved in order to obtain the general trust of relevant parties and the public. The main forms are.
— certification certificate, logo.
–Accreditation certificate, logo.
–Certificate of inspection, test reports.

3 The significance of conformity assessment

3.1 For consumers, consumers can benefit from conformity assessment, because conformity assessment provides the basis for consumers to choose products or services.

3.2 For textile enterprises, there are many orders and self-developed products, so there need so many times of testing and inspection. If every test is sent to a third-party institution testing and inspection, in terms of time and money will cause a huge waste. Therefore, the establishment of their own testing laboratories, set inspection regulations will be a long-term solution.

3.3 For the regulatory authorities, all kinds of inspection and testing, certification activities of the assessment body is very much, the good and the bad, so that users have no choice, and even damage the interests of the parties concerned. To ensure the authority and impartiality of inspection and testing results, accreditation activities came into being, providing the means to implement laws and regulations and achieve public policy goals.

3.4 For international trade, with the development of economic globalization, accreditation activities in various regions require the adoption of uniform standards and rules procedures, and then developed into a regional certification system. For example, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) promotes the establishment of the ISO 9001 international quality management system, and the certification activities based on this standard.

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